The first thing you need to do is measure your yard and create a scale drawing of your project area. When you have measurements and approximate square footage, lay out 15 foot sections to represent the rolls of turf. Configure the turf so you have fewer seams and minimal waste. When you are happy with how it lays out, calculate your square footage based on 15 foot widths by the length of each of your sections. Never order turf in the exact length per section, give yourself some wiggle room for uneven edges and cutting around objects.
There are a few ways to go about seeming turf. The most common would be a side seam. This is where the tufts from one piece are laying the same direction as the other piece. Making sure the fibers are facing the same direction, cut off the last three tufts on each piece and lay them together with and 1/8 inch gap between them. If the seam is visible before glued, it will remain visible after it is glued. Folder each piece open and lay a piece of seam tape down the center. Fold the seam together again to make sure you are happy with how it lines up before gluing. Once approved, fold the pieces back and apply a thin layer of XGS glue to the seam tape with a flat spreader. Starting at one end, hold the pieces of turf even and lay them down with the fibers coming together like a zipper. For seams longer than 10 feet we recommend another set of hands.
A butt seam is when you join two pieces of turf together with the tufts running perpendicular to each other. With the last three tufts cut off of the piece where the tufts run along the seam, line the other piece up against it and allow it to overlap by a few inches. Starting at one end, cut along the tufts from the top with a saw like motion while keeping an eye on the edge of the piece beneath it. Shoot for an 1/8 inch gap all the way down. Check the seam, clean up any rough spots and proceed as mentioned above.
Seaming two pieces of turf together on an angle is not recommended but can be done in the same fashion as a butt seam, this is more advanced and should be left to professions.
Yes. Our products must be installed with the fibers facing the same direction. Pay close attention when laying down multiple pieces on one project. If you are not sure, take a step back and look at it. It will be noticeably different if they are facing the wrong direction and even more so once infilled.
The base that is built beneath the surface is equally as important as the surface itself. The existing grass or soil must be removed to a depth no less than 4 inches. Then a three-quarter inch quarried aggregate is laid down, smoothed out and compacted. If drainage is an issue, clear crush or drain rock must be installed first.
Although some products are advertised as being a non-infill product, there is really no such thing. Any grass will look nice without infill if you have no plans on walking on it. The infill is in place to hold the blades upright from the very base of them and promote their self correcting attributes. Aside from holding the blades upright and standing tall, there are different infills for different applications. Infill can be spread manually with a shovel but we recommend using a push spreader. (Not rotary)
Nails, or 4 inch galvanized spiral spikes as we call them, help in holding your turf in place as well as hold seams together. Any perimeter edge that sees foot traffic will need spikes every 10 to 12 inches. a seam will have a spike every three inches on both sides of a seam. the spike should sit approximately a 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the edge of a seam or perimeter for best results.
Yes. We call these dye lots. We will see a few different dye lots per product annually. When ordering your turf, order an extra 2% for use in future repairs. This will be needed in order to match the product in the future.
Yes. Our product line of landscape grass is designed to cover just about any application imaginable. Some choose purely based on aesthetics, others want a grass that will perform to their exact specifications. For instance, an area that will never see foot traffic can do just fine with a flat yarn product where areas that see high foot traffic will require a more resilient shaped yarn product.
Not unless you bring the mud into your yard from elsewhere. The gravel base beneath the turf allows water to drain into the earth freely and you should never see any dirt or soil on the surface.
If you want to be outside your grass will be there to accommodate. No matter how much rain or snow, you can get out there and make the most of your time. The surface area will remain firm and free of any soggy areas for as long as you have your home.
Absolutely. The only debris you will find on your artificial grass is that from nearby trees or items left behind from your kids. Think of an artificial grass yard as an extension of your clean living space. Your yard will be cleaner for your kids and pets and they will be cleaner coming back inside the house.
Our products have been proven to stand up to even the strongest of paws. Dogs want to dig in the dirt. After a few failed attempts of digging, they will be turned away. The grass will make a great play area for pets and has even been proven to break dogs of digging habits.
Not completely, but the pests that tend to live in natural grass are unable to create a home within artificial grass. Flying insects will still visit, but without any vegetation, they will not stick around.
One of the most common reasons our customers install Bella Turf is simply because natural grass would not grow in their yard. Artificial grass is not dependent on the sun or weather to look beautiful. Install it once and enjoy its beauty for decades.
Depending on the type of cut, techniques may vary. If you are cutting turf to length and have access to the backing, set the blade on your X-Acto knife to no longer than a quarter of an inch. Measure down each side and mark the edges of turf with a small cut from the blade. Snap a line across the backing with a chalk line and steadily cut down the roll. If you are cutting around objects, cutting seams, or just needing to cut from the top, you will use around 2 inches of blade and cut in a saw like motion while holding the turf in the other hand.
Yes. The biggest problem we have faced are high-efficiency windows. They magnify the sun to temperatures that are not safe for artificial grass, natural grass, or any plants for that matter. Stay away from installing artificial grass next to high-efficiency windows.
Don’t even worry about it, cleanup is easier than before. With a flat head shovel, press the shovel down into the fibers in front of the mess. With a quick scoop and downward pressure, you will take away the droppings and in most cases leave no trace. If there is still unwanted remnants, hose it down just as you would on the pavement. If you’re artificial grass starts to have a foul odor due to it being used as a relief area, give it a deodorizing with our turf renew pet deodorizer. It will have your yard smelling fresh again.
No. If you are one to decorate the yard with portable gardens and flowerpots, artificial grass will be your new best friend. Relocate or rearrange as frequent as you’d like, the grass beneath will be unharmed. A simple brushing of the fibers will have them standing upright and looking new again.
One of the many benefits to artificial grass is that you can soak it, smother it, and trample it time and time again and it will be left unchanged when the summer is over. Temporary pools and play structures will leave nasty dead areas on a natural lawn. Once removed, a simple brushing of the fibers will have them standing upright and looking new again.